Wednesday, July 30, 2003

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania -- early morning

Earlier this evening, I left 2008 Walnut Street for the last time. Corey and I had to clean it in order to get our security deposit back. It is interesting to think that I moved into the city two years ago. It's also interesting to think back to all the memories from 2008: from my first weekends in the city to pre-gaming sessions just about every weekend to my going-away party and everything in between. To think of all the meals that I cooked in that kitchen. To think of all the hours of reading books and the hours of watching television there. To think of all the deep, late night conversations I've had with Corey and other guests. Perhaps just as much as everything combined, though, I think of my experiences with several different women: the young 19-year old sophomore girl to the experienced 34 year-old attorney to the 23 year-old physical therapy student to the 19 year-old Filipina girl. More than anyone else, though, my memories are dominated by Heather, the girl that I loved and wanted so much, but was just not to be.

Sunday, July 20, 2003

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania -- night

It has been just over two months since I've last written. There's no need to make excuses since I have no obligation to write. But then again, I feel that writing is important, so I do feel bad that I haven't kept up.

I moved in my apartment here in Philly on the first weekend of June. In some ways, the transition to living on my own has been more difficult than I expected, partly on a materialistic (and hence financial) level, but even a bit on the emotional level. I thought I would be well-prepared to live on my own from my solo travels in Central America. But there was always that sense of excitement and newness when on the road. Being alone in a stable environment has proved to be a different game. Nevertheless, I still think it was helpful that I travelled solo in order to transition to this new experience.

In material terms, there is much work to be done, most especially with regards to living room furniture and decorations for the walls. But since I have all the essentials I have inevitably lost much motivation to complete my settling-in. I am a simple man, so I don't as much for coffee tables and rugs. Perhaps only my love of color, and the life it brings, is impelling me to decorate the walls. Even still, I have been slow to take initiative in the area of interior design.

Now, I could catch things up on my life at the office, or my educational ambitions, or my social life, but right now I don't feel moved to do so. Probably next time. Before ending this long-awaited entry, I'll re-cap a very interesting experience of the past two days, a two-part journey through the city of brotherly love.

On both Saturday and Sunday afternoons, at 4:00 p.m. to be exact, I left center-city for a tour of a different section of the city. On Saturday, I left for West Philly, travelling west on Walnut Street, then Spruce Street, then Market Street before eventually reaching 69th Street, the city's western limit and its border with Upper Darby. During my tour, I saw more than a handful of block parties, where residents blocked off roads at their own discretion, and set up barbecues, loud music, and games for their children. The smells in the air and the sights of young and old alike having fun were enough to light up the soul. I was also impressed by the stateliness and grandeur of the architecture in West Philly, which evidenced that it had once been the wealthy suburban section of the city. Much of it has been kept up nicely, despite a more middle-class character. It was depressing, though, to see some buildings falling apart as a result of poverty and lack of maintenance: a snapshot of the long, slow death of the beautiful architecture of an age long past. I also rode my bicycle past Malcolm X park; I was slightly surprised to find out that a park would be named in his honor. It makes sense due to the predominantly black population of West Philly. But for the city government to recognize that name surprised me a little bit. On the ride back into University City, I stopped at Abner's for a decent cheesesteak. From there, I crossed back over the Schuylkill River to finish Saturday's journey.

Earlier today, I set off on a similar voyage, but in a different direction: south. I started off down Broad Street until I turned left on to Washington Avenue. Then I turned right on to 10th Street. I took that as far as I could go, before getting back on to Broad Street to eventually reach my destination: FDR park, right by the stadiums. Once there, I dismounted my bike to walk the circuit, passing by all the picnic areas and pavillions. Most of the groups there were either black or Southeast Asian, either Vietnamese or Cambodian. I was really impressed with the groups of southeast Asians since some groups were as large or larger than 50 people. It was amazing. It was great to see everyone having a good time. After walking the circuit, I hopped my bike to ride back to my apartment. I couldn't stay out as long as yesterday since I was really hungry for lunch. I rode back most of the way on 16th Street. It was nice to see other parts of the city. I hope to do it again.

Sunday, May 18, 2003

Medford, New Jersey -- night

This past Thursday night, I took Mita to the Juanes concert in Philadelphia. When we got there, we met up with Karim, her two sisters, two other girls, and two guys from Costa Rica. I really only talked with Karim and one of her girlfriends. Mita seemed to have a good time talking with a few of the girls.

The concert itself was great. The venue was sold-out and the demographic was largely Latino, a really interesting feel for being in Philadelphia. With everyone talking Spanish before the concert and the concert itself being in Spanish, I almost felt like I was back in Costa Rica. Juanes put on a very good show, and I enjoyed singing along with some songs and even dancing a little bit too. It was a good night.

Friday day was notable for lunch. I went with Sue and Karim to an Afghan Kabob House on the 1500 block of Sansom Street. It was delicious food and nice conversation too.

After work, I went to my old apartment to meet up with Corey. That was actually after I had gotten a haircut. We chatted for a little bit before I took a shower to wash off all the loose hairs. Then, we went to a coffee-shop to chill out and converse. We were there for about an hour and a half before we went back to his apartment.

It wasn't much later that Amber came to meet me. Ok, Amber. I met her two weekends back on a Saturday night with Corey, Bill, and Nancy at Kaleidoscope Kafe, just off South Street. We weren't able to meet last weekend because she went back to Lycoming College for graduation weekend to see some friends. So, we set up plans to get together this past Friday night. When she pulled in to the parking lot behind my old apartment, I ran out to get in her Jeep Cherokee. Then, we spent about the next forty-five minutes driving around looking for a parking spot. In the meantime, we had good conversation. It was towards the end of that that I presented her with two options for dinner, yet in a vague sort of way. I wanted her choice to be something of a surprise. She chose Monk's on 16th Street near Spruce. We gave up on looking for a parking spot as hunger impelled us to just park in a parking garage.

As usual, the wait for a table in Monk's was about forty-five minutes. But that was ok since I ordered a round of beers from the bar, and we began another conversation in more depth. Early on, I went on a ten-minute discourse about the public education system in the United States. She was impressed and had clearly not considered anything I had said previously. We ate dinner, and afterwards went to Copa II for margaritas. Throughout it all, we had pretty good conversation. Then, we actually stopped in to see Corey. We drank wine and watched a program about Indian fashion and culture in the U.S.

About an hour later, we went back to Amber's apartment, kissed for a little while, and went to sleep. I slept on the futon, and Amber slept on the couch near me. All in all, it was a very nice time. I'm not sure that she is sufficiently revolutionary to have a relationship. I think we'll date for a while, but just keep it pretty basic. I would like to be friends, and as I said in my last entry, it will be nice to have a girl to spend time with.

The rest of the weekend was spent reading a lot of Lenin. And that's about it for now. Future dates will be much more convenient when I have my apartment in the city. I look forward to the move.

Friday, May 9, 2003

Medford, New Jersey -- night

Now, today must be marked as the day that I signed for my apartment at 2124 Spruce Street. After several weeks of searching desperately, yet patiently, for an apartment in Philly, I have met with success. After nearly a month and a half after returning from Costa Rica to my mother's home in Medford, New Jersey, I will once again embrace independence. In this case, though, in contrast to my time in Costa Rica, this independence and self-reliance will be stationary and not mobile. For the first time in my life, I will live alone. This will surely be another important stage in my own personal development. And so, upon embarking on this next definable chapter, I will probably reference my latest chapter - my journey to Central America - less and less.

These past several weeks have only been a transitional, preparatory stage. So now I must begin to look ahead to my next goals. In practical terms, I must furnish my new apartment. This I will probably do over time, hopefully to be completed by the end of the summer. In other matters, I will like to enroll to take a course in the second summer session of either the Community College of Philadelphia or Temple University. I am considering taking a language course, either French, Arabic, or Portuguese. Or perhaps I will begin to take a course in International politics. In other purchases, I will begin to save to buy a new bicycle, which will serve for both recreation and transportation. I hope to make this purchase by mid-summer.

From there, in the long-term, I will save to buy a personal computer; this I will expect to purchase by December 2003. I will use this primarily to catalog all my political essays, as well as poetry. In a much larger project, I would like to retype all my college papers to save on disc and on hard drive. As soon as I move into the city, I will also subscribe to "The Economist." This will supplement my own self-education in international political economy.

In the meantime, professionally, I will continue to work as a paralegal at Philadelphia Legal Assistance. I soon anticipate being transferred out of the family law unit to another unit. I hope to hear word of that by the beginning of the summer next month. I am undoubtedly prepared for a new challenge in the professional realm.

With regard to girls, I have little to say. I will maintain my expectations at a low level since I clearly have other priorities at this time in my life. Nevertheless, this does not mean that I won't socialize or date if an opportunity presents itself. I am a man after all. Companionship is a nice thing to break the silence. It also usually renders life more meaningful, at least insofar as living new experiences. Happiness will always remain the ultimate objective. Of course.

Finally, in a quick overview of upcoming events, I will be doing a five kilometer walk for breast cancer this Sunday; also, Sunday is Mother's Day and the day before Jessica's birthday. So both will have to be celebrated on Sunday afternoon. Then, this coming Thursday, I will see Juanes in concert at the TLA in Philly. At the end of the month, I'll go to State College for the annual Pennsylvania Legal Services conference. And, some time in mid-June, I expect Ronald to come from Europe to visit me. We will do a tour of the Northeastern United States. So there it is!

Friday, April 25, 2003

Medford, New Jersey -- night

Well, its a Friday night, and I'm staying in. Depending on which way you spin it, I'm either becoming more mature or else I'm just getting old. Either way, here I am. And I'm totally exhausted. Commuting is really draining my energy. For that reason, I look forward to moving back into the city. But on the other hand, it has been a strange comfort to be here in Medford. I think I'm even a bit scared to live on my own. Not out of any fear of danger. But out of a fear of being lonely. I imagine that living a solitary life demands much discipline, especially self-discipline. And really what that means is keeping a steady head on one's shoulders. It will be an interesting challenge.

I thought it was amazing - sitting and talking with Ethan in Rittenhouse Square - earlier this evening - that he was bitching so much about not being able to talk to his girlfriend tonight, and also how he hates seeing other couples when he's not with his girlfriend. I told him gently that he should be grateful that he has a girlfriend, and that he should have faith in the relationship that they will one day have much more time together. I implied also that others' happiness really has nothing to do with his own happiness, or sometime lack thereof. My advice was very mature, but I was quick to temper it by saying that I understand how one can get caught up in feelings, desires, and expectations. I've made plenty of mistakes by thinking too emotionally like that. I hope I've learned my lesson, and can keep a cool head when I'm in a situation like Ethan was today.

Well, since Ethan has been giving me rides to get to and from work, I invited into the city after work today to treat him to dinner. We went to Monk's at 16th and Spruce. I drank a Chimay Triple to go along with my bacon and cheddar burger and basket of fries. It was great and definitely hit the spot as I had hoped.

Now, on to work; this week was especially productive. And I proved to myself that I have all the skills that I had prior to my hiatus. Nearly every case from this week was determined to be perfect advice upon review by Stephanie. I only really had a question on one case, a divorce matter. So far, work has been pretty good. Nevertheless, I'm still looking to be transferred to a new position, and all the challenges that will entail, and hence all the experience it will offer.

Now, in terms of recent activities, I will say that Corey and I went to a Chivas scotch whiskey event at the Union League this past Wednesday. Really, when it comes down to it, there's not much to say about it. It was a nice opportunity to see the inside of the Union League, which is not surprisingly lavish and luxurious. I had just a few drinks of whiskey, which was terrible. But, oh well, it was all free, so nothing lost there. Well, I'm really exhausted now, so I'll stop here.

Monday, April 21, 2003

Medford, New Jersey -- night

Okay, its been a while again since I've written here, I should just accept the fact that life here is much faster, and despite all the technology to make life easier, I'm busier than ever (at least in recent times). Also, although there are special moments almost every day, it just seems more hum-drum here. Nothing compares to fording the Rio Bongo, getting chased by an angry bull, or travelling every other day to a new town to meet new people.

In recent news, this past Friday I sat down with Anita, the executive director of PLA, to discuss my desire to transfer to another unit. As I explained to her, I know I could be a good family law practitioner. But I want to be better than good; I want to be great. So, as I said, I will not go to law school until I have found an area of law in which I can be not only committed, but passionate. In family law, I love helping people. But I have no motive to drive me day in and day out to fight for other people's rights in the areas of custody, support, divorce, paternity, and protection from abuse. I think my feelings and thoughts of not having a family of my own has something to do with that lack of drive. Really, I don't even care to have a girlfriend. Other things are just too important. My time, energy, and money are all better put toward other objectives. I'm sure I'm a bit cynical still too. A relationship just doesn't appeal to me. This sentiment may not last, but I don't foresee any change any time soon.

Anyway, getting back to PLA, Anita said that she has some ideas (in the area of community-based lawyering) and that she will keep me posted. The meeting was very positive. I'm interested to see what she comes up with. Very simply, I'm ready for a new challenge. I want to test myself and diversify my skills, professionally and personally.

Okay, in the area of self-education, I finished "Lituma en los Andes" by the Peruvian writer Mario Vargas Llosa. For the past few days, I have been reading "The Lenin Anthology." Perhaps lessons in revolutionary politics, specifically in practical activism, will provide me with examples of leadership in action. I hope so. We shall see.

This past Saturday, I had a house party in which all the guys (Corey, Ethan, Evan, Bill, Paul) showed up. It was only the second time ever that we all ever hung out. It was less of a party, though, than a chill get-together. Evan came with Amy. Ethan came with Christine. And Bill came with Nancy. Paul, Corey, and I were rolling solo. Mita did the great majority of work in preparing a Tico meal; I finished it up. Only Evan and Amy didn't eat. Everyone else loved the food. Of course the Salsa Lizano put it all over the top.

After dinner, we sat around the table and talked. The two main topics were Evan and Amy's wedding, and my beard. Talking about the latter was hilarious because it dominated about half an hour of conversation. Later, we played one game of mushroom, a beer-drinking game. Then, we all broke off into little groups, with Paul and Corey joining me one the back deck to smoke Tico "Flor Real" cigars. I drank a good amount, but even still, I was surprised to wake up at sunrise the next morning passed-out on the couch downstairs. I certainly don't plan on drinking like that again any time soon. But even though I passed-out, I was chill through the whole night. All in all, it was a very nice time. So, I guess that's all for now.

Thursday, April 17, 2003

Reaction to An Opinion

The United States did not get involved in Iraq for purely humanitarian reasons. In fact, the justifications put forth by the President were that Iraq had nuclear and biological weapons that needed to be eliminated. So far, of course, nothing has been found, making this war a mistake according to its stated purpose. But many supporters of the war proudly point to the 'liberation' of Iraq from a tyrannical despot, Saddam Hussein. Although I am not against this end (especially since Iraq was widely known to be a leading human rights offender), there is something to be said for the respect of the sovereignty of a nation. And if the human rights situation in any nation becomes so oppressive and death-dealing that it merits international intervention (overriding that respect for a nation's sovereignty), it should be exactly that: "international." That is, the United Nations must take initiative to intervene on behalf of the rights of all humankind.

Some pro-war advocates have also been pushing the philosophy that the United States must act proactively for its interests and security. [...] In this specific case, however, the justifications seem unwarranted. In the previous paragraph, I grant you that Saddam Hussein is a threat to his own people. But there is yet to be clear evidence that he is a direct threat to the United States. As of this writing, there have been no nuclear or biological weapons found in Iraq, and furthermore, even if there were, Iraq does not have long-range missile capability, and therefore cannot threaten United States land/territory.

To be proactive - specifically militarily proactive - is very dangerous when one cannot present valid, solid justifications. Although the outcome of Gulf War II may appear positive, at least insofar as it will liberate the Iraqi people from a dictator, it presents a dangerous precedent (and a dangerous example) to the rest of the world: that anyone can pre-emptively attack anyone else in an unprovoked situation.

In the case of Gulf War II, this is being seen by the rest of the world as arrogance on the part of the United States government. Please understand how dangerous this is. The United States (with the exception of only Great Britain and Spain) has no support in the world. Again, although the outcome of Gulf War II may appear positive, the long-reaching consequences may severely and negatively impact the United States. To lose the international popular support that had been gained as a result of the September 11, 2001 tragedy is a failure of the current administration. Even more unfortunate is that the consequences will very likely outlive this administration.

In this brief summary, I have not touched on economic or geopolitical reasons for the war; perhaps some other time. To sum up, I cannot say that I am completely anti-war because of the humanitarian aspect of the war. However, to be cold and calculating for a minute, that is beside the point. I say this because this war was not fought for humanitarian reasons. And so, in this context, I do not support this war.

Saturday, April 12, 2003

Medford, New Jersey -- night

Tomorrow is Mita's birthday, but we celebrated it tonight. Mita, Jessica, and I just got back from dinner at El Azteca on Rt. 73 in Mt. Laurel; I paid the bill. The food was pretty good and I used the opportunity to speak Spanish.

As I write this, I'm leaning on my left elbow while listening to a radio program on Temple University Public Radio, 90.1 FM, which runs every Saturday night from 9pm to 12 midnight. The program is all latin music, mostly salsa.

This past week at work I was supposed to do workshops at halfway houses around the city each evening on Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday. Since the trainings each evening were scheduled from 6pm to 7pm, Richard invited me to live with him for the week. The two experiences, at the halfway houses and with Richard, were interesting.

I'll start first by reflecting on my visits to the halfway houses. On Tuesday evening, I led a training to a group of four ex-prisoners at 15th and Cecil B. Moore, right by Temple University. It was my first training, and definitely a test of my knowledge of family law, after just returning from four months away. I was fairly informal in the presentation, but still presented the information quite clearly. I talked to the ex-prisoners using their first names. And of course, whenever I got the chance, I threw in a funny remark or comment to keep things light. At the end of the presentation, I spoke for a few minutes with Gilbert Coleman, from the Mayor's Office of Community Services. We had a nice conversation, and as I found out the next day from his colleague, he was impressed by my presentation.

Unfortunately, though, the next two evenings were not as rewarding. Each of the next two evenings, not one ex-prisoner showed up. It ended up being nearly a complete waste of time. On Wednesday evening, the only redeeming event was listening to one of the wardens at the halfway house speak his opinion (which he stressed was from the "old school"), and then the ride I got from Shareef El-Amin and our conversation from 407 North 8th Street to the intersection of Broad and Erie.

Since I had gotten a ride, I arrived earlier than expected and had to wait for Richard to arrive. While I was sitting on a cement ledge, I noticed a black woman approaching me from behind. Quite abruptly, she says to me without any sort of introduction: "We will call you Fernandez." Of course she was all by herself. So it was very apparent that she was either a mental health patient or a drug abuser. In that area, and based on her appearance, it was probably the latter. I acknowledged her by saying that I liked the name. But she just kept on walking, even while continuing her public conversation. Just a couple minutes later, Richard pulled up in his black Cadillac.

Thursday night was not much better. I went to the halfway house at 1221 Bainbridge Street. When I got there, I got into a basic, but good conversation with an ex-prisoner while waiting for the guy from the Mayor's Office to show up. The guy was 41 years old, and seemed to have finally gotten his head on straight. He cared a lot for his kid, and says his only addiction was to buying clothes. I hope that is the truth, not only for his sake but also for his kid's sake. When the guy from the Mayor's Office arrived, there were no prisoners there that had interest in a legal presentation. For the second night in a row, I did not present anything. The extent of my involvement was responding to a couple of hypothetical scenarios presented by another assistant from the Mayor's Office. So, all in all, it was a disappointing experience and a lost challenge.

A somewhat bright spot, though, was staying with Richard for the week. Although I was exhausted every night, we did spend solid time together out of the office. Surprisingly though, we did not have any long or deep conversations. So in that aspect too, this past week fell short of what it could have been. Those things happen though, so no sweat.

I believe I'm starting to realize a re-orientation, a re-direction, in my professional interests. I have certain goals which I am seriously considering. I will save this for my next entry, though, since I am feeling very tired. Corey and I hit the town last night, so I think I used all my reserves then. Well, I hope to write again tomorrow. We shall see.

Thursday, April 3, 2003

Medford, New Jersey -- night

It's still crazy to see 'Medford, New Jersey' in the caption. Although being back still feels quite bittersweet, there have already been some touching, positive moments.

Later in the work day today, I had a chance to talk with Michael, my 15-year old Ukrainian friend. He told me that the first Monday at work after I had left for my trip, he had felt very sad. He told me that later that same night, he felt so depressed that he took a few drinks from a bottle of whiskey to put him to sleep. From that point on, he would tap my door every day when passing as a far-away gesture of friendship; it was his way of making daily contact with me despite the distance. He told me that before I had left, I had been his best friend. I had always tried to bring Michael under my wing to provide him a good example of a good man who treats everyone with love and respect. His admissions really touched me, especially that he had the strength and sensitivity to open up to me. I felt very honored.

Soon after, when I had left work, I stopped to talk to the black homeless man on 15th and Chestnut, always sitting on an upturned bucket next to the blue mailboxes. I had promised him a good conversation. But very quickly into it, he told me about how so many times he had considered killing himself by throwing himself in front of a bus or a Mack truck. What he said stopped him were his friendships. Then, he told me how much he missed me while I was gone. Tears welled up in his eyes, and he had to wipe his eyes. I told him my thoughts, that I respected him very much to remain so strong in his position. I also pointed out that during our conversation, at least several people had said 'hello' to him. I said that is the purpose of life: to spread love, and then to wait for it to come back to you. I told him that I considered him my friend, as I consider everyone. And I said that each person has a purpose in this lifetime, although one may never discover it while walking on this earth. I told him that he is effecting other people's lives, whether he realizes it or not. For that reason, he must continue to live, and to spread love. And that as long as the sun shall rise each day, so shall I. And hence, so must he. I told him to always have faith in God, and to live and love. His feelings and expressions really touched me. It made me feel good to help someone. And I feel better for the day when I will need help.

Besides that, the only other big news is that I spoke with Evan tonight, and he asked me to be a part of his groom's party. Of course I accepted.

Also, I met with my first client in person since my return. It was a complex case comprising of custody, child support, and protection from abuse. I took the facts, analyzed them, and advised her. To verify my skills, I checked with Stephanie to check my advice. She told me that I hadn't lost my touch. It felt good to know that. Although I wasn't really surprised, it was a nice challenge.

Well, tomorrow I go to court with Richard, dressed in shirt, tie, and jacket, whereas that time last week I was walking down the main street of Samara, Costa Rica in just a bathing suit and flip-flops. Oh well, it's all good. There's a reason for all of this. Just gotta have faith and keep on moving.

Tuesday, April 1, 2003

Medford, New Jersey -- night

Today is April Fool's Day, but it's no joke that I'm back in the United States. My initial feelings at being here are of sadness and disappointment; I really wish I was still in Costa Rica. Of course I had to come back to take care of Mita. I also had to return to resume my position at PLA. However, if Mita ws completely healthy and happy, I think I would have considered - and quite probably decided to stay - in Costa Rica. But, oh well, here I am.

I kept my beard today when I went to work, partly for the expected humorous shock, but really primarily as a loud, yet unspoken message of where I am now coming from and who I am. More than ever, I feel totally out of place in the corporate world and its morning and evening commuters. If only they knew. The prospect of re-capping my days with Paul may be looking slim, but I hope to find time this weekend to sit down and write.

So to quickly re-cap today (since I am very tired), I spent most of the day either talking to co-workers about my travels or catching up on my email. I also took some time to clean and organize my office, as well as review all the files and programs on my computer. As always, I demand order to facilitate the most effective work and service possible. Tomorrow I will begin calling clients; so I will be back in the swing of things that quickly. I sense that my confidence and ease have both increased significantly; through that I will gain more respect and more trust.

Well, the time has come to put my pen down. I'll do some reading before hitting the sack. The excitement of today's first day at work has worn off; I really don't look forward to going to work tomorrow.

Wednesday, March 26, 2003

Playa del Coco, Costa Rica -- evening

Today has also been another good day. I woke up at 6am to shower and then eat breakfast of gallo pinto con huevos picados.

Even though our appointment at Sky Trek in Santa Elena Reserve was at 7:30am, we left Dona Virginia's house at that time. I trucked going over the dirt and gravel road to arrive at the entrance to Sky Trek at 7:40am; we were right on time. The Sky Trek was absolutely amazing. We hiked some trails and went down about eight ziplines, some of which were either really long or really high off the ground. We got some great action photos. Of course I was yelling and cheering and letting my hands off the bars. It was a blast.

So after about two and half hours of that, we began the Sky Walk, which is a series of suspension bridges connected by hiking trails. Again, we got some great action shots, including one of me hanging upside down from a tree branch.

That brought us to about 11:30am, when we drove back to Dona Virginia's house. After we packed the car, a Suzuki Ignis, we ate lunch with Dona Virginia. We ate rice, beans, fried cheese, green beans with egg batter, and hard shell tortillas. This was accompanied by a drink of fresco de chan, which is made by soaking chan seeds in water.

At 1:30pm, we hit the road to Guanacaste. I was cruising once we hit the PanAmerican Highway, averaging about 100 km per hour. Of course, I got stopped by la Fuerza Publica when they clocked me at 102 km/hr. I bribed the cops by paying them 6000 colones to avoid any other problems. We continued on our journey after that minor incident.

Ok, it's evening right now in Playa del Coco, and Paul and I have been drinking and having a good conversation. I'll stop here and pick up later.

Tuesday, March 25, 2003

Santa Elena, Costa Rica -- night

It has gotten to the point where so much has happened that it will be difficult to review everything.

I'll start with today's events. We arrived in Santa Elena at a little after 2pm, at which time we looked and eventually found Dona Virginia Zamora. Yorlen had recommended that we stay here since it was cheap and we would get some good home-cooking. After arriving and settling in for a few minutes, Dona Virginia prepared a nice, big lunch, with rice, beans, sardines, yucca, chayote, accompanied by a glass of the juice of maranon. After the long four-hour drive from La Fortuna around the Lago Arenal to Tilaran, and then on dirt roads up and down the mountains to eventually reach Santa Elena, I was definitely hungry for a heavy meal.

After eating, Paul and I drove up to the center of town to buy tickets for Sky Trek and Sky Walk at 7:30am tomorrow morning, then went to get a cup of coffee to give us some energy for the afternoon and evening. We then drove up to the Reserva Biologica in Monteverde, only to find out that it was closed. So we went to a hummingbird gallery to take some photos of hummingbirds. We tried to climb a trail behind the building (which wasn't allowed), but we got stuck when the way became too steep and too dense.

So we went back in the car to descend towards Santa Elena. I stopped three times at different places to ask local residents if they knew the Sanfords. Supposedly, this was a dairy-farming family that lived in Monteverde. Vicente had lived with them for a time, and Vicente's sister had visited them just a few years ago. I figured I would look for them to get a possible tour of a Costa Rican dairy farm, but not one person recognized the last name. And I talked with people who had lived here for many, many years: one Tica and two Quakers. It became apparent that I wasn't going to find the Sanfords.

So Paul and I continued descending the slope to Santa Elena. On the way, we saw a sign for some trails; we turned in. When we approached the entrance, we quickly walked onto the trail instead of paying the entrance fee. And so began our arduous evening. To put it simply and quickly, we walked so far down the trails that the sun set on us while quite far from the entrance/exit. Our only source of light was the light from Paul's digital camera, which was not strong, but was nevertheless very much better than nothing. Many times we found ourselves going off the trail, unintentionally of course. To add to the pressure, we would occasionally see two glowing green eyes either on or near the trail. Those eyes belonged to snakes. Several times we encountered barbed wire fences, which we sometimes jumped and sometimes turned away from. On several occasions, due to the lack of light, I lost my footing and fell to the ground. After about an hour of stumbling our way through the dark trails, along with sweating bullets, we finally found out way to an exit (which was not where we entered). I felt absolutely thrilled, but I was spent. I walked out onto the main road breathing heavily and sweating heavily. My relief was nearly immeasurable.

We returned to a delicious meal with Dona Virginia; she cooked rice and beans with a very tasty chuleta, accompanied with string beans and broccoli. It was exactly what I needed.

Now, I've spent the rest of the night calling Yorlen and Rosaura, and writing this entry. It's now about 10:30pm, and I have to wake up at 6am to go to the Sky Trek and Sky Walk tours. Once again, I unfortunately cannot review the events since Paul's arrival and our experiences in San Jose, Guapiles, Puerto Viejo, Manzanillo, Jaco, Quepos, Manuel Antonio, and La Fortuna and Arenal. I hope to find time tomorrow to at least chip away at these writings.

La Fortuna, Costa Rica -- early morning

The town is named appropriately since tonight we had good fortune.

Today, in general, has been a great day. It can likely be considered to be one of the best days of my life. Making into the ocean at Manuel Antonio by 8am, then ending the night now at 2:30am after watching Volcan Arenal spew forth lava all night long.

Today must be captured as freshly as possible into letters and words. Although I can't write much more due to tiredness and the effects of other substances, I will quickly comment on the highs of the day. Manuel Antonio was great; really nice waves to bodysurf. And just now, the sight of lava flowing, rolling, and bouncing down the slope of the volcano. And just as impressive, the sound of the volcano: like the hammering of a carpenter in a hollow shop very distant. The beat was sometimes non-existent, but at other times quite fast and incessant, calling out the building of pressure.

Although the sights can be re-lived, the sounds must live on in memory. This is why I must write immediately to reflect the thoughts and visions of my life, to capture those sounds so they may reverberate every time I read these words again. To say the hammering was amazing is an understatement. It was deep and imposing, just as was the sight of the silhouette of the volcano against the clear, starlit night was also imposing and very impressive. It is the memory of that beat that will now lead me into sleep, soothing me, yet urging me to the content state of unconsciousness.

Wednesday, March 19, 2003

San Jose, Costa Rica -- morning

So right now it's just a matter of hours until Paul arrives. I'm writing to kill a few minutes while Marlen is vacuuming the car. When she's done, I'll be driving to Tia Zahrya's house to pick up some clothes, then - depending on the time - either come back here to organize my backpack or else go straight to the airport to pick up Paul. But I've got to find a solid half-hour to call around to rent-a-car companies. I could do it now, but I'm set on hitting the road while it's still kinda early. This will be a challenge to drive alone from one side of San Jose to another. Of course I will overcome. That really goes without saying.

Tuesday, March 18, 2003

San Jose, Costa Rica -- night

I'm now writing from the house of Tia Luisa in Jardines de Moravia. I won't write too much since I want to get in bed early to sleep well for tomorrow. Paul should be arriving at the airport at 3:05pm.

In the morning, I want to call around to different rent-a-car agencies to check prices. Also, I have to go to Tia Zahrya's house to pick up some clothes that I left there. I'll try to time it so that I can eat lunch there. Also, at some point tomorrow morning, I want to organize my backpack again. But maybe I'll do that later at night. We'll see.

Anyway, last night I went out with Carlos and his girlfriend, Angie, first to Big Dog's in Escazu, then to El Cuartel in Barrio Escalante in San Jose. Big Dog's was cool because I got to tell Carlos and Angie a bunch of great stories from my solo journey. And then, el Cuartel was banging, of course. Nice atmosphere. Good live music. And at least a few really nice-looking women. We didn't get back to crash here until almost 3am.

Today, Carlos and I got up at about 7am to run errands all day long. I had to go to Banco San Jose to change two traveller's cheques, one to dollars and the other to colones. I needed the $100 to then go to Grupo Taca to pay the fine to change my flight date and confirm my flight for March 30. And the 37,000 colones and change were because I was down to my last colones from the last cheque. Now, I think I'm all set for the next two weeks of certain fun and escapades with Paul.

Monday, March 17, 2003

San Jose, Costa Rica -- afternoon

Today is St. Patrick's Day. I would have forgotten if Mita hadn't told me in our conversation yesterday. It makes sense that they don't celebrate that holiday here since there probably aren't too many people with Irish blood. For my part, I doubt I will celebrate since I've decided today will be a day of rest. With so much travelling and so many buses in the past month or more, I feel like it will be nice to just stay here in Tia Zahyra's house all day long. Also, another consideration is that I have just 2100 colones now, and I'd like to wait to go to the bank until Wednesday, when Paul gets here. Of course, I'll go to the bank tomorrow, but only to exchange one traveller's cheque for dollars, not colones, to pay the $100 fee to change my flight date and reserve my seat for March 30.

So my errands tomorrow will be bank, then the office of Grupo Taca. Afterwards, I think I'll wander through the mercado of San Jose to look for t-shirts and local artwork. I probably won't buy anything until I'm with Paul, but the trip will be more of a scouting mission to know where to find certain items.

So today I'll just take it easy. I'll finish writing here and I'll do some reading. I'll also review the itinerary which Yorlen helped me with last night. Our two-week tour of Costa Rica should be really fun. To say that I'm really looking forward is an understatement.

Finally, in retrospect, I'm glad I left Nosara a day or two earlier. I'm giving my body a well-needed rest. The skin on my nose and shoulders is peeling a little bit from the excessive, strong sun. And the bruises on my abdomen are healing nicely; they should be all healed in just a couple days. Also, the blisters and cuts on my feet are definitely taking advantage of the rest.

Sunday, March 16, 2003

San Jose, Costa Rica -- afternoon

The trip from Nosara to San Jose was a long one. I left Nosara at 12:45pm and arrived at San Jose at about 7:30pm. Along the way, we crossed the Gulf of Nicoya on the Tempisque Ferry; it was really cheap, only 30 colones. Surprisingly, I was awake for the whole trip. I read a section of my current book, "Lituma en los Andes" by Mario Vargas Llosa, a Peruvian author.

But most of the trip, I just looked out the window. I observed that many parts, Guanacaste especially, are very dry as a result of the hot summer sun. Actually, the trees on the mountains and many on level ground have lost their leaves dut to the dryness. It gives the appearance of late autumn in the northeastern United States. It is only the very warm temperature that quickly reminds one that you're in Costa Rica.

During the long trip, I also noticed a postcard-size picture of Jesus. It really caught my attention and got me thinking. I wondered about what it was like when Jesus walked on earth. And I wondered whether he brushed his teeth, or ever got a haircut, or disliked a type of food. I wondered what he thought about when he took a shit, or if he even had to in the first place. I wondered if he ever noticed a beautiful woman, or if there was any chance that he ever had a boner. I wondered if he ever had to sleep, and if so, for how long. I wondered if he ever felt bored. I also wondered if he ever wanted to tell the Israelis about the Americas, since he surely knew about the Western Hemisphere. I wondered what language he spoke, and if he knew many more. It may seem crazy that I thought about these things, but I really pondered what it was like when he walked on earth.

After conversations with the American, Joe, in Manzanillo, and then Alex, the German, in Samara, I have an interest in Jesus and the Bible. I want to read the Bible soon after returning to the United States. Also, to better understand the Muslim perspective, especially with regard to global political events as effected by religion, I'd like to read the Koran.

Anyway, catching up to my present location, I'm staying again with Tia Zahyra in San Antonio de Desamparados. By the time I got the local bus from the center of San Jose to arrive here, I reached the front gate at about 8:30pm. No one was home, but luckily just five seconds later, Tia Zahyra and Yorlen came walking down the street after a day of shopping in San Pedro.

Last night, I went out with Yorlen to watch a local soccer rivalry between la Liga Deportiva Alajuelense and Saprissa. Of course la Liga won four to one. Afterwards, some of Yorlen's friends were asking me about my trip. I gave some brief highlights, along with the usual generalities. Then, somehow the conversation got to talking about the possible war of the United States against Iraq. No one understood the U.S. motives for war, and the opinion was nearly of anti-American sentiment. It made me wonder what international opinion must be in other less-U.S.-friendly nations. For my part, I remained quiet. I had no inclination at that moment to provide my analysis of the reasons for the potential war. It was more interesting to hear what the Ticos had to say about the war. They realized that Bush has personal incentives with the oil industry. But besides that point, they didn't seem to present any other motive for war.

I was just happy to get back to Tia Zahrya's house to fall asleep on the couch after a long day of travel.

Saturday, March 15, 2003

Nosara, Costa Rica -- morning

The Ides of March. Well, I just bought my ticket to return to San Jose today. It was a close decision, but I think it was a good one. With the deep cut on my left big toe, and the two bruises on my abdomen, I could use a few days without walking on sand and in the heat of the sun.

Also, I realized I have to consider the bus fare to Desamparados as part of my financial analysis since all banks are now closed until Monday (today is Saturday). Plus, in general, I don't enjoy being in such a tight, stressful monetary situation.

And finally Nosara just doesn't hold my attention. Tonight there will be a live concert at the only discoteque, so everyone will be there. Of course I won't be there, which is perfectly fine. My chances of getting into a conversation in that kind of atmosphere are slim. I know this from plenty of experience in discoteques in the States and here in Costa Rica.

Also, I just visited the local shop for tourist information. They confirmed that the closest beach is Playa Pelada. I don't look forward to that long trek again. Also, Pelada is the nicest beach, and there will be many more people there today, since it is Saturday. But the beach is not that big. I don't look forward to being in the ocean surrounded by a bunch of other people; even yesterday there was a big group of Spring Breakers. So just imagine today. I just don't have any desire to re-enact the Jersey shore. I'll experience plenty of that this summer in the States. And to top it all off, I know I will be back to the beaches soon with Paul, so its no big deal to leave here.

I guess it would also be good to see family again before setting off so soon with Paul. So that's settled! When I write again, I should be in San Jose.

Friday, March 14, 2003

Nosara, Costa Rica -- night

My plans may very well be moved up. The town of Nosara is nothing like Samara. Nosara is located about five kilometers from the beaches, which means that I had a long walk to the beach and a long walk from the beach today. Although the beach is nice as I said earlier, I'm not sure its worth the long walk now. My legs are pretty tired now, to the point where it was a bit uncomfortable to explore the town after getting back and taking a shower. Luckily for my legs, but unluckily for a good time, there is nothing to the town of Nosara. I ate dinner at one of the two bars, which was surprisingly expensive for being inland and lacking a heavy, visible tourism.

Actually, I'm now down to just over 10,000 colones, so I have decided to leave on Sunday morning. But because of the lack of social life, and the resulting boredom, I am now considering leaving tomorrow for San Jose. Its been over a month that I've been travelling solo, and I could use a return to 'civilization,' so to speak. But, more specifically, I would like to get three full meals a day, and have some nice conversations with my aunts and cousins.

Right at this moment, a frog is hopping by on the gravel in front of the bench I'm sitting on. Anyway, its probably about 9pm right now, and I'll likely be going to bed soon. This, for lack of a better option.

I've already read a section of my book, smoked a Costa Rican cigar, and now written in my journal. One of this afternoon's redeeming events was a conversation I began when coming upon a man walking towards me on the dirt road when I was walking to Playa Pelada. I began with the simple, but sincere question of the time of day. From there, he asked the usual questions, like where I was from and what I was doing here. He ended by saying that I was very nice and very friendly and that Costa Rica would be a better place if everyone acted like me. It was a very nice compliment.

I agree that I wish more people were friendlier. I have no problem beginning conversations in situations like that. But when I'm alone at a bar, where there's always a group of buddies there, its too imposing to cut in. It would be nice if others would reach out to start a conversation. I look forward to travelling with somebody, so as to have a better chance for us to reach out to others, or else, to speak between ourselves.

I'll be happy to reach San Jose. I'll make a decision tomorrow morning over breakfast as to what to do and where to go. Without an alarm clock, I hope I wake up early on my own.

Playa Pelada, Costa Rica -- afternoon

I'm sitting on a log while writing this, facing the ocean, wearing only the bathing suit that I've borrowed from Carlos for this whole trip. I'm in a pensive mood, thinking about the past. Oftentimes I wonder how things could have been different. But to no avail, because here I am all alone. I'm sure its for the best, but there are still times when thats hard to accept. Its during moments like these that I wonder where she is and what she's doing. And I also wonder if she ever thinks of me. I can only imagine, and sometimes that's scary.

Anyway, here I am at one of the three beaches of Nosara. This is the only one, though, that received 'la bandera azul,' which means that it is at the highest level of environmental cleanliness. Of course that's why I came. The water looks darker blue from the shore, but is very clear once you're inside. I could see my feet the entire time I was in. Also, the waves are pretty calm. It's very nice.

I wanted to stay until Monday morning, but I may leave on Sunday. There are two factors. First, money. I have 15,000 colones, but with 2000 colones per night for a room and a tight budget of 2000 colones per day for food, I'm left with only 3000 colones to make it to at least Nicoya, if not all the way to San Jose. That scenario is if I stay until Monday. The second factor is fun. I like the beach here, but it may get old quick, especially after two days straight. I may go to one of the other two beaches, but we shall see.

But the real clincher is what to do during the night-time. Without meeting anyone to talk to, I am relegated to writing or reading my book. These two are just fine in their respective doses, but too much may drive me to leave for San Jose. But all of this I counter with the prospect of what I will be doing in San Jose; probably much of the same. Of course I'll play it by ear.