Granada, Nicaragua -- afternoon

Its a little bit windy as I sit here on the shore of el Lago Nicaragua. I think that the wind comes off the mountains to the east and then picks up speed as it comes across the surface of the lake. There are a number of locals swimming in the lake, but for me there is little appeal to take a dip.

My time in Granada, and Nicaragua for that matter, will end tomorrow morning when I leave for the border. I have little choice since I am left with only about 45 cordobas right now, at least 23 of which I will need to pay bus fare from Granada to Rivas and from Rivas to Penas Blancas. Unfortunately, it appears I will have to fast until I return to Costa Rica.

In many ways, it is a shame that I must leave here so soon. Granada is a beautiful city. Although it is not as big as Leon, the added features of its lakeside location, and the volcano so nearby overlooking the city, make Granada an attractive city to visit. Also, similar to Leon, its colonial architecture and lay-out make it quaint and comfortable. However, without a doubt, I prefer Leon; this is due to a few initial experiences here in Granada.

First, there seems to be little contact between tourists and locals. The locals have generally been cold to me, and the only ones really initiating contact were the guys pushing to sell marijuana and other drugs. And that is very annoying because they push so hard, that they nearly accost you or else accompany you practically into the bathroom. In a couple of words, they are very insistent. The other locals here seem a bit cold, and even resentful, to the foreigners. And I don't necessarily blame them.

To provide an example, I went with Toby to a local bar last night. My first impression was that it was very touristy, but in that negative pseudo-bohemian sort of way. I went to the bar to order a gin and tonic, then I asked a second bartender when the live music was to begin. And of course I asked in clear, fluent Spanish, as is natural since we are in Nicaragua, a Spanish-speaking country. The small-statured, pseudo-intellectual-looking brat responded in clear, fluent American English by demanding "English," meaning that he was ordering me to speak his language of English. The cultural superiority exemplified in that act sickens me. It is exactly that sort of condescending attitude that brings the United States a bad name all over the world. To a great extent, it was that cultural inflexibility that impelled Osama bin Laden to make the statement (as horrible as it was) that he did. I remained cool last night in that example, and quickly got my answer in English. That was probably the most peaceful reaction possible. But in retrospect, I almost wish I had punched that ass in the face, and told him to speak Spanish.

As a final observation on this point, Granada seems very touristy, but unfortunately in the sense of tourists who come to get high and have little interest in any sort of true, authentic, respectful intercultural/international experience. And there are many more tourists here than in Leon, making the whole spectacle a zoo of pseudo-bohemians believing that dreadlocks or long hair or beards or rags or ganja or coke or not showering for months will automatically show them or bring them to el camino real. Little do the fools realize that their attitudes and behavior are disrespectful to the culture and to the people here. So it is little, if no, surprise that the local people of Granada are now only interested in contact in the form of money changing hands . . .

Well, incidentally after writing that last sentence, a street vendor walked by with his cart and we started a conversation. He essentially said that the people of Nicaragua simply want to work, in order to eat. In response to my question, he said that Bolanos has done nothing to improve Nicaragua's economic situation. I told him the story above and told him how ashamed I am of those who bring a bad name to the United States, or tourists in general. I also said that it was important to have conversations like ours, between Nicaraguans and foreigners, to open the minds of both and to create a true intercultural exchange.

However, I realized quickly into our conversation that he had a heavy Nicaraguan accent, which tends to slur words by speaking very fast. As the conversation got deeper, it became more difficult for me to remain involved due to his accent. But I did understand a quick story he said later about how a group of bandits attacked a police officer, and did some real damage, about two years ago. He said it was a general response to police brutality, which is common here in Nicaragua.

I told him that the Nicaraguan government should promote more tourism. But I warned of a risk that I have witnessed especially here in Granada: it is not good for the Nicaraguan economy if the tourists only invest and/or spend at foreign-owned businesses. (I now feel a little bad that I'm staying at the Bearded Monkey). And as I said, here in Granada, there is little contact between tourists and locals. Leon, however, seemed much more integrated, therefore positively effecting the Leon economy.

As a final point, it probably seemd hypocritical that I didn't buy a hot dog from him. But I do need to get to the border tomorrow, and I'd rather arrive by bus than by hitchhiking.